Shirts - Getting the Perfect fit

If you are looking for the perfectly fitted shirt and are not too sure how to go about it, then look no further!

I have made many thousands of  shirts in my career and am also the owner of a pretty impressive collection in my wardrobe. Throughout my career I have seen a number of changes to the look of business and casual shirts, though there are a number of areas that just  do not change. This article is going to address the major points of what to look for and expect from an Ascot shirt.

The Collar

Most men I see want comfortable collars but make the mistake of having a collar that is just too big for them. The collar should be snug around  the neck, enough room to put a finger down the front when buttoned up. I don't want my clients to feel it is tight or uncomfortable, but when buttoned there should be no visible gap. Please talk to your tailor about comfort as opposed to fit because its one of few things that cannot be changed once made. When the shirts are delivered to you we will have allowed a little more room in the collar for shrinkage. Alongside the fit of the collar we will make recommendations to you as to the shape of the collar, we want to flatter and work with what you have!

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The Shoulders

The shoulder seams (the yoke) of the shirt should complement your natural shoulder lines, not heading towards your neck or past your shoulders and down the sleeve! We do cater for very dropped shoulders and cut the shirt to ensure that there is no creasing near the armhole.

The Top half of the Shirt

There should be a smooth coverage over the chest, with enough space to allow you to have a full range of motion. Too tight and the buttons will gape, too loose and you wont get the comfort and feel good factor of a tailored shirt.

The Bottom half of the Shirt

Some of which you cannot see but your partner will! This is where off the peg shirts can really let you down with a lot of billowing around your waist and lower back. Ascot shirts will look very clean and fit you consistently all the way round. For those of you with sway back, we normally use back darts to give more shape in the back but adjusting the amount of fabric at the front and back of the shirt.

Shirt Length

Please talk to us about your intentions before we measure you, the length of shirts can be dependent on casual untucked look or a smarter tucked-in look. There tends to be about four inches difference in the two.  domain buy service . The ideal length for a casual, untucked shirt, is mid seat with a shorter button position. Full length shirts need to be long enough to finish past your seat which stops any part of the shirt escaping from the top of your trousers!

Sleeve Length and Cuff size

The sleeves should hit just past the wrist, at the very beginning of the hand. They should show about 1/2″ under the sleeves of a jacket. There is a fine balance between too long and unnecessary grouping of fabric at the base of the cuff, and too short so the cuff runs halfway up your forearm when you extend your arms.

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The cuffs should be comfortable but not claustrophobic, particularly when the weather heats up.  We do ask about any watches you own to give more allowance to cover the watch,  though you have to promise not to change wrists or get larger time pieces!

For more information please speak to your Ascot tailor to talk you through all the options we have.

John Styles